Industrializar a Floresta: O sonho de Henry Ford no meio da Amazônia
15 de setembro de 2011 por Paulo LimaOriginalmente publicado em: http://diplomatique.uol.com.br/artigo.php?id=993
No início do século XX, o industrial Henry Ford impôs sua visão de mundo à construção automobilística. Sua ambição era expandir a “racionalização” e a “padronização” para todas as atividades humanas. Com a criação da Fordlândia, na Amazônia, um centro de produção de borracha para pneus, ele pôs seu sonho em prática 
por Greg Grandin
(Construção da antiga Fordlândia resiste ao tempo em plena Floresta Amazônia)
Em 1927, quando Henry Ford anuncia que sua companhia tinha adquirido, na Amazônia, uma concessão do tamanho de Connecticutpara cultivar borracha e construir uma cidade em plena selva, a imprensa norte-americana celebrou o evento como o encontro de duas forças paralelas irresistíveis. De um lado, o industrial mais potente do mundo, a quem devemos a invenção do trabalho em cadeia e o triunfo de novas normas de produção, que consistem em duplicar ao infinito componentes cada vez mais simples, guardando a mesma qualidade. Do outro, a maior bacia fluvial do planeta, irrigando nove países e cobrindo um terço do continente sul-americano, uma zona tão selvagem e tão cheia de vida que as águas que margeiam o território comprado por Ford continham mais espécies de peixes que todos os rios da Europa reunidos.
O negócio parecia, então, com um combate entre a energia torrencial do capitalismo norte-americano do início do século XX, encarnado por Henry Ford, e um mundo ancestral que ninguém até então tinha conseguido conquistar, simbolizado pela majestade imutável do Rio Amazonas. Para a revista Time (24 de outubro de 1927), não havia nenhuma dúvida de que Ford otimizaria sua produção de borracha a cada ano “até a completa industrialização de toda a floresta”, para a grande felicidade das tribos amazonenses: “Em breve, os índios negros armados de pesadas lâminas vão cortar nivelando suas palhoças de outros tempos para facilitar a fabricação de limpadores de vidros, tapetes e pneumáticos”. Segundo o Washington Post, Ford levaria à floresta “a magia do homem branco”, a fim de cultivar não somente “a borracha, mas os seringueiros em si mesmos” (12 de agosto de 1931).
A instalação do homem de negócios norte-americano no Norte do Brasil corresponde a esse momento da história, em que o tempo dos aventureiros se envereda pela era do comércio. Ford, ele mesmo, evitava recorrer aos adjetivos floreados de que tanto gostavam os exploradores da Amazônia. Se ele considerava a selva como um desafio pessoal, era menos pelo desejo de dominar a natureza, do que pela vontade de impor sua visão da América, essa mesma que encantava a imprensa do seu país. Sua concepção da existência não era isenta de romantismo, em particular quando ele fazia sua promoção de danças de salão. Mas o rei da indústria automobilística não era, no entanto, sedento de aventura. “Um homem que trabalha duro deveria dispor de uma poltrona, de uma chaminé acesa e de um ambiente agradável”, professava. Foi dentro dessa lógica que Ford construiu em plena floresta pequenas casas dignas de um subúrbio residencial burguês para hospedar seus trabalhadores brasileiros, incentivando-os a cultivar flores e legumes em seu pequeno jardim.
De 1927 a 1945, quando cedeu sua parcela ao governo brasileiro, Ford gastou dezenas de milhões de dólares para construir duas cidades norte-americanas em plena selva; a primeira foi abandonada depois da destruição de uma plantação por um parasita vegetal. Seus habitantes gozavam de todas as vantagens da civilização: praças, calçadas, saneamento, hospitais, gramados, cinemas, piscinas, terrenos de golfe e, claro, carros da Ford para passear nas ruas pavimentadas. Vindo visitar Fordlândia, depois de uma longa viagem através da Amazônia, o representante militar norte-americano no Brasil, o major Lester Baker, descobriu com surpresa um “paraíso” digno do Midwest, equipado com “lâmpadas elétricas, telefones, máquinas de lavar, vitrolas e refrigeradores”.
Os primeiros anos foram marcados, no entanto, por uma violência e uma libertinagem mais apropriadas a uma cidade de fronteira, do que à Disneylândia. Malária e febre amarela faziam aumentar como uma flecha a taxa de mortalidade. Nuvens cinzas escureciam o céu, alimentadas por incêndios os mais devastadores. Os migrantes à procura desesperada de um emprego, vindos, em sua maioria, de terras áridas e esfomeadas do Nordeste brasileiro, afluíam nos campos de trabalho, atraídos pelo boato segundo o qual Ford empregava dezenas de milhares de braços pagos a US$ 5 por hora. Eles levavam consigo mulheres, crianças, tias, tios e primos, que se amontoavam nos barracos feitos de caixas de madeira e de lona de tenda.
Os trabalhadores que fugiram das plantações traziam consigo histórias de brigas com arma branca, revoltas, dirigentes norte-americanos transformando a floresta virgem em campo de lama, queimando largas extensões de selva sem ter a mínima ideia de como se cultivavam as seringueiras.
Entre os que ficaram, a brigada fordista ia mal. Horários cronometrados, apesar do calor e da chuva; regime alimentar imposto até dentro das maternidades, onde era dado apenas leite de soja aos bebês (Henry Ford detestava vacas); proibição de frequentar as espeluncas locais, o álcool estava proibido.
Nicho ideal para as baratas
Em dezembro de 1930, dois meses depois da “revolução” que tinha levado Getúlio Vargas ao poder, uma revolta explode em Fordlândia. Sob o slogan “O Brasil para os brasileiros. Morte aos norte-americanos”, os trabalhadores saquearam uma parte das instalações e fizeram valer suas reivindicações.
Os executivos estadunidenses não ignoram que, para seu empregador, a organização dos trabalhadores constitui “o maior flagelo que o planeta sofreu”. Eles solicitaram – e obtiveram – o apoio das forças armadas brasileiras: os manifestantes foram demitidos, os pequenos comércios vizinhos foram fechados.
Foi então a vez da natureza se revoltar. Ford insistiu para que as seringueiras fossem plantadas em fileiras espremidas – conforme o ilustre modelo de suas usinas em Detroit, onde o alinhamento das máquinas limitava ao strict minimum as possibilidades de movimento. Com isso, ele acabou criando um nicho ideal para baratas e um fungo, o míldio, que não demoraram a devastar as plantações.
Fordlândia parecia amaldiçoada, não somente em razão do desastre dos primeiros anos, mas também, uma vez que a ordem foi mais ou menos assegurada, em razão da recusa obstinada imposta pela vegetação à brigada fordiana. Todavia, ao visitar hoje o que restou, sentimos uma certa melancolia. Apesar do uso intenso do fogo pelos seus primeiros exploradores e o volume de produção, do que foi a maior serraria da América Latina, o lugar evoca menos as calamidades do desmatamento, do que um outro gênero de perda: a desindustrialização. A torre da cisterna corroída pela ferrugem e os escombros da dita serraria apresentam, na verdade, um parentesco com as ruínas industriais de Iron Mountain, em Michigan, uma outra antiga “cidade Ford”.
Há dois quilômetros do porto fluvial de Fordlândia, sobre uma colina costeada por um rio, se encontram os restos do “bairro norte-americano”. As casas de madeira, como sempre impregnadas do rigor protestante, guardaram seus tetos de ripa, seus pisos, seus muros de cimento, suas molduras decorativas, seus banheiros revestidos de azulejos, seus enfeites e suas geladeiras. Decrépitas e cobertas pela vegetação, elas abrigam, hoje em dia, colônias de morcegos, que repintaram as paredes e os solos de uma grossa camada de guano.
Mais nas proximidades do rio, brasileiros, entre os quais alguns veteranos da Ford, vivem ainda em bangalôs modestos, alinhados ao longo de três avenidas ajustadas aos contornos do terreno. A central elétrica e a serraria separam essa cidade proletária da ex-zona residencial branca. Turbinas e geradores desapareceram da sala de máquinas, mas vestígios industriais ainda estão espalhados pelo chão por todo lado. Enterrado na grama, um pedaço de trilho que lembra os cinco quilômetros de via férrea que servia, em outra época, para transportartoras de madeira até a central.
Há mais de cinquenta anos, em sua conferência “Errand into the Wilderness” (“Em missão no mundo selvagem”), o historiador Perry Miller tentou explicar por que os puritanos ingleses preferiram embarcar para o Novo Mundo no lugar de ir para uma região mais familiar, como a Holanda, por exemplo. O que os motivava, segundo ele, era não somente o desejo de salvar sua “posteridade da corrupção de um mundo nefasto”, encarnado, na época, pela Igreja da Inglaterra, mas também o desejo de salvar a cristandade em toda a Europa. Em um “país vazio, ainda desprovido de instituições estabelecidas (e corrompidas), sem bispos, nem cortesãos”, os colonos iam começar tudo do zero. Eles não fugiram do seu país, eles procuraram, ao contrário, restaurar nele a fé verdadeira, criando no outro lado do Atlântico o “modelo” de uma comunidade mais pura.
Então, foi uma “profunda inquietude”, o sentimento de que “algo deu errado”, que deu início à primeira fase da expansão em direção à América. A fundação de Fordlândia apoiou-se sobre um procedimento semelhante: a impressão de que “alguma coisa tinha dado errado” nos Estados Unidos. A cidade da selva viveu os altos e baixos dessa vida norte-americana que Henry Ford ambicionou remodelar. A política e a cultura em seu país lhe forneciam inesgotáveis motivos de queixas: a guerra, os sindicatos, Wall Street, os monopólios energéticos, os judeus, a dança moderna, o leite de vaca, os Roosevelt, os cigarros, o álcool, as intervenções do governo federal… Mais grave ainda que todas essas pragas: as forças do capitalismo industrial que Ford tinha contribuído a desencadear correm o risco de, agora, arrastar o mundo que ele tanto sonhou em restaurar.
Da utopia à zona franca
O fordismo continha os germes da sua própria destruição: o desmembramento do processo de produção em segmentos cada vez mais isolados, combinado com rápidos progressos do transporte e das comunicações, possibilitou os empregadores a romper a ligação estabelecida por Ford entre os mercados rentáveis e os bons salários. As mercadorias puderam desde então ser produzidas em um lugar e vendidas em outro, a incitação para o patrão remunerar corretamente sua mão de obra – a fim de que ela pudesse comprar os produtos que ela fabricava – não existia mais.
Essa degradação é particularmente visível na cidade amazonense de Manaus, a cerca de 500 quilômetros a oeste de Fordlândia. Resplandecente no século XIX, quando lá se concentrava todos os excessos do boomda borracha, Manaus conheceu sua segunda fase de anos dourados, no fim dos anos 60, quando o regime militar brasileiro lhe conferiu o estatuto de zona franca. Isenta dos direitos alfandegários, a cidade tornou-se o supermercado de todo o Brasil. No seu porto de águas profundas, cargueiros provenientes dos Estados Unidos, da Europa e da Ásia desembarcavam cotidianamente suas toneladas de mercadorias. Em 1969, o New York Times saudou essa “prosperidade febril” evocando os bandos de brasileiros que chegavam, em voos charterdo Rio e de São Paulo, para se encher de produtos sem impostos – jogos, rádios, ares-condicionados, televisões etc. Na mesma época, o governo militar dava um apoio maciço à sua indústria (subvenções, redução de impostos a exportação), transformando Manaus em zona industrial para as transnacionais de marca, à maneira das maquilladoras mexicanas que começavam, então, a abundar ao longo da fronteira com os Estados Unidos. Hoje, Manaus abriga centenas de usinas como Honda, Yamaha, Sony, Nokia, Philips, Kodak, Samsung ou Sanyo. Em 1999, a Harley-Davidson abriu lá sua primeira fábrica deslocalizada. A Gillette dispõe lá da sua maior cadeia de fabricação da América do Sul.
Com o crescimento demográfico mais elevado do Brasil, Manaus viu sua população passar de 200 mil habitantes, em meados dos anos 1960, para 3 milhões nos dias de hoje. A cidade transborda do Rio Amazonas tal como um monstro com tentáculos, devorando todo dia as folhagens esmeralda da selva envolvente. Como várias metrópoles do Terceiro Mundo, ela está atormentada por uma pobreza e uma criminalidade em constante aumento. Quanto ao resto: prostituição infantil, tráficos, poluição e um sistema de tratamento moribundo. A cidade não está equipada com uma estação de depuração, as águas usadas pela população são diretamente despejadas no Rio Negro. Manaus representa 6% da produção industrial do Brasil, chegando perto de uns 100 mil empregos. Por mais incrível que sejam os ganhos de seus exportadores, a cidade não pode oferecer trabalho a todos os migrantes rurais que chegam procurando ganhar o pão de cada dia. Chegando por avião, o visitante tem ao mesmo tempo a visão das imponentes torres de luxo, erguidas sobre bancos de areia fina e as favelas, que se estendem até seus pés, empoleiradas sobre os pilotis instáveis para se proteger dos caprichos do rio – um condensado de desigualdades em um dos países mais desiguais do mundo. Em comparação, o hiato social que separa o bairro norte-americano de Fordlândia e sua cidade operária parece quase irrisório.
Em um caminho de uns 500 quilômetros, na parte meridional do rio Amazonas, se desenrola a história do capitalismo moderno. De um lado, Fordlândia, monumento à glória das promessas não cumpridas do nascente século XX. Do outro lado, Manaus e seus flagelos urbanos, esses mesmos que Ford pretendia conjurar, e que, no entanto, se nutriam do sistema que ele implantou. A ambição de reproduzir a “América” na Amazônia não teria então dado certo, o resultado foi: a terceirização da “América” na Amazônia.
Greg Grandin
Autor de Fordlândia: The Rise and Fall of Henry Ford’s Forgotten Jungle City. Nova York: Metropolitan, 2009.
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