História de Jornalista: Hoje é dia do Santo Namorador de Boim

31 de julho de 2013 por Paulo Lima

Com autorização do Prof. Manuel Dutra, republicamos aqui a Matéria que saiu no Jornal O Liberal de Belém em 9 de agosto de 1987. A matéria não retrata a realidade atual da Vila de Boim e busca ressaltar a originalidade e grande criatividade que a caracteriza. É um texto rico de histórias e lendas da Amazônia, de seus habitantes, de suas dificuldades e seu imaginário.

Fonte: Blog do Prof. Manuel Dutra

História de jornalista: hoje é dia do santo namorador de Boim

À noite, quando todos dormiam, exceto o boto conquistador, Inácio Lopez de Loyola deixava o seu pedestal e, viajando algumas léguas Tapajós abaixo, em pouco tempo estava ao lado de Nossa Senhora da Saúde, na Vila de Alter do Chão. Não foi uma nem duas vezes que os fiéis, ao chegarem para a reza matinal, assustaram-se ao perceber as vestes do santo úmidas pelo orvalho e a orla de seu manto apinhada dos carrapichos do mato por onde andara na noite anterior. 

J. Bosco, para o libro Ramal dos Doidos

Reportagem publicada no jornal O Liberal, de Belém, em 9 de agosto de 1987, constante do livro Ramal dos Doidos. Portanto, os dados aqui publicados (menos os históricos) referem-se àquela data . A parte do relato sobre a mitologia local não tem a intenção de depor contra os moradores de Boim, afinal  histórias parecidas fazem parte do imaginário amazônico e integram nosso quadro cultural.

Por M. Dutra – Pouco lugar no mundo tem tanta história para contar. Cada esquina da vila, cada vereda, cada árvore centenária, cada touceira de tucumã representam, na cabeça dos moradores de Boim, especialmente dos mais velhos, ‘causos’ materializados em tempos idos ou que se repetem no presente. As frestas abertas pelo progresso distante eliminaram da convivência diária, e “real”, personagens como o velho boto de mil tropelias, o jurupari, o patauí, o padre-sem-cabeça, o bicho-do-mato, os assobios misteriosos que assustavam a vila nas madrugadas quentes de verão.

Embora o jurupari não sugue mais o miolo das pessoas com a grande boca que tem acima do umbigo, nem o bicho-do-mato carregue mais as mocinhas para as capoeiras, o boto ainda dá o ar de sua graça. Hoje em Boim há dois filhos de boto, duas crianças albinas que não suportam a luz do sol, pela hipersensibilidade dos olhos à luz. Neste caso, os mais jovens preferem chamar, em vez de filhos do boto, a classificação mais realista de filhos de puta.

Contrastando com a exuberante beleza do Rio Tapajós, as comunidades situadas em suas margens caracterizam-se pela extrema pobreza. A antiga importância de Boim, como ponto de apoio dos regatões, concentrou no lugar a pecha de faminto. Ainda são correntes as histórias de quando um “gaiola” se aproximava para pegar lenha no Pau-de-Letra, uma ponta de areia próxima à vila, o vapor apitava: “Boiiiimmm, Boiiimmm”, a que os cachorros do lugar respondiam, correndo para a beira do rio: “fome, fome, fome”. E o galo cantava: “sempre foi assiiimmm…” Tido e havido como um rio pobre, hoje sabe-se que essa pobreza caracteriza seus habitantes porque não dominam, ainda, as técnicas mínimas de pesca e não dispõem de meios para aproveitar os ricos cardumes da região.

Porém, a partir do Sindicato dos Trabalhadores Rurais, eles começam a protestar contra a penetração de barcos-geleiras que adentram o rio para encher seus depósitos com o melhor tucunaré que existe no Baixo Amazonas, com o filhote e a dourada. O tracajá também atrai os pescadores de fora. A população sobrevive tradicionalmente da pequena produção da farinha de mandioca, da caça e da extração cada vez mais difíceis e da captura de pequenos peixes com os apetrechos os mais rudimentares.

Religião e riqueza

O isolamento vem sendo quebrado a muito custo. A vila já dispõe de um campo de pouso para pequenos aparelhos, porém a perda de sua importância econômica ao longo do rio faz com que as embarcações de maior porte evitem seu porto. Para chegar a Santarém, só nas embarcações menores ou, depois de uma hora de travessia, apanhar o barco maior lá na outra margem. A meio caminho entre Santarém e Itaituba, Boim teve alguns momentos de glória. No século passado, com a presença de várias famílias de judeus que extraíam a borracha nativa, o breu, as madeiras nobres e muitos outros produtos.

Os jesuítas chegaram em 1690, 29 anos depois de fundarem a missão de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, em Santarém. Antes, os espanhóis já haviam saqueado as plantações de milho e mandioca dos indígenas e o monge Gaspar de Carvajal já havia registrado as “terras muito povoadas”, sob o domínio de um senhor que se chamava Nurandaluguaburabara. Para conviver com os indígenas já aculturados pela catequese, em meados do século passado, chegaram várias famílias procedentes do Tanger e do Marrocos, todos judeus e ávidos por um lugar onde pudessem ao mesmo tempo praticar livremente sua religião e enriquecer.

São nomes hoje disseminados por toda a Amazônia, muitos deles já modificados pelo tempo: os Serique, os Cohen, os Azulay, Benchimol, Benayon, Essussy, Acioly, Azuelos, Serruya. Embora concentradas em outras áreas do Tapajós, ainda há vestígios em Boim de famílias de outras procedências, como os Bemerguy e os Sirotheau. Ou de nomes ibéricos como Xavier, Lameira, Bastos, Rocha, Chaves, Rodrigues. Basicamente atraídos pela borracha, eles transformaram o lugar num dinâmico entreposto comercial. Já estão desaparecidos os vestígios desse período, vistos ainda nas ruínas dos paredões das grandes casas e dos armazéns que construíram.

Nos começos deste século a decadência já era realidade. No final da década de 40, tempos depois da saída da Companhia Ford Industrial, do Tapajós, os norte-americanos Chester Coleman e Charles Townsend Jr. instalaram em Boim uma serraria que, por 20 anos, viria trazer novo alento. Dedicada ao beneficiamento da madeira-de-lei, a empresa motivou novo surto de um progresso que não perdurou. Quem viu a vila há 30 anos e a vê hoje tem a segura impressão de tratar-se de um outro lugar, apenas caracterizado pela igreja de Santo Inácio, pela casa dos padres e pela tranquilidade do grande rio.

Fé e progresso

Chegados ao Tapajós em 1942, os franciscanos da Província do Coração de Jesus, com sede em Chicago, imaginaram transformar Boim no centro de suas atividades, a meio caminho que fica da área que iriam missionar. Para materializar esse desejo, construíram, na década de 50, um imenso convento de dois pavimentos que hoje mais parece um dos tantos fantasmas do lugar. Mais tarde, ao assumirem a direção de toda a Prelazia de Santarém, os religiosos abandonaram sua grande casa, vendendo-a depois para a prefeitura deste município. Atualmente é uma escola em cujos salões e corredores perdem-se os 280 alunos da vila.

Bem ao lado, outra edificação dá a medida do que os franciscanos sonharam fazer de Boim. Um hospital que, em épocas passadas, funcionou. Hoje fechado e deteriorando-se, está sob a ameaça da erosão da rua da frente, cujas valas já consumiram algumas casas. Parece ser um lugar fadado a não ser mais que uma aldeia do interior da Amazônia. Da serraria que ficava a dois quilômetros da vila resta tão somente a imensa caldeira abandonada na praia. É como se ali nada tivesse existido há três décadas. As casas melhores também ruíram e a população decresce.

Hoje eles são apenas 1.070 habitantes, na maioria pessoas idosas e crianças que viram os mais jovens partirem. Os moradores recentes compõem-se de caboclos chegados de barrancas ainda mais isoladas, convivendo com um ou outro descendente de judeus ou portugueses, os que vivem em melhor situação, dominando o pequeno comércio da vila, e comprando os escassos produtos da extração. Não fosse a luz elétrica no centro da vila, a pista de pouso, a promessa de um posto telefônico e a televisão cheia de chuviscos do Seu Cirilo, o maior comerciante do lugar, Boim poderia ser uma reedição, talvez, do que foi há cem, duzentos anos.

Imersos naquele mundo de água e mata os habitantes têm a mente fértil inclusive para explicar seus próprios azares. Assim, há muitos que acreditam que a vida deles só vai mudar no dia em que a igreja de Santo Inácio de Loyola for construída de frente para o rio. “Esta é a única igreja do Brasil construída de banda para o rio”, assegura Elísio Eden Cohen, líder político e autor de um livro sobre o lugar. Os mais velhos, porém, afirmam que já foram feitas tentativas, em tempos muito remotos, de fazer a capela “de frente”, mas a construção nunca andava, um vento forte sempre a derrubava.

Flerte sagrado

A posição da igreja tem a ver com a Cabanagem. Quando os guerreiros tentaram tomar de assalto a vila, um piedoso devoto de Santo Inácio conseguiu esconder a imagem no mato. Passada a refrega, ninguém mais se lembrava onde estava metido o santo. Lá um dia eles o encontraram. Deram então início à construção da nova capela, “de frente”, a que sempre caía. Até que o oráculo de uma velha respeitada informou que o templo tinha que ser feito na mesma posição em que foi encontrado o santo. Como este estava com as costelas para o rio, assim tudo foi feito e a construção não caiu mais. E a conclusão é que, se o progresso depender da posição da igreja, ou não haverá igreja ou não haverá progresso. Porque corre a lenda segundo a qual o atraso de Boim é resultante da posição errada da capela.

Entronizado pelos jesuítas, Santo Inácio não foi o primeiro padroeiro, cargo que pertencia a Nossa Senhora do Rosário. As duas imagens ficavam lado a lado, no interior da capela e os moradores logo descobriram que havia um flerte entre os dois. De 1910 para cá, Santo Inácio virou padroeiro e ninguém sabe onde foi parar a Nossa Senhora do Rosário. Insatisfeito com a solidão, o santo guerreiro da Espanha basca, como bom cavaleiro que foi na vida terrena, buscou alternativa.

À noite, quando todos dormiam, exceto o boto conquistador, Inácio Lopez de Loyola deixava o seu pedestal e, descendo algumas léguas Tapajós abaixo, em pouco tempo estava ao lado de Nossa Senhora da Saúde, na Vila de Alter do Chão. Não foi uma nem duas vezes que os fiéis, ao chegarem para a reza matinal, assustaram-se ao perceber as vestes do santo úmidas pelo orvalho e a orla de seu manto apinhada dos carrapichos do mato por onde andara na noite anterior. Seja como for, nada diminui a fé de quantos até hoje prometem-lhe mil coisas em troca de outras tantas, sobretudo pistolas. Assistir a uma festa religiosa em Boim é ouvir o estourar dos fogos do começo ao fim.

Por cima de tudo, Santo Inácio é santo mesmo. Não é o tronco de carvalho no qual a imagem de quase um metro e meio foi esculpida. Ele assume a mesma estatura do fiel que, com devoção, se aproximar dele em oração. Antes da última restauração, que deixou a estátua bem vistosa para a festa de 31 de julho, havia um buraquinho entre os lábios, deixado por um antigo restaurador de imagens de Santarém. Porém, não se tratava de um lapso do artista. Era naquele orifício que Inácio colocava o cigarro que fumava em suas sortidas noturnas, para espantar os carapanãs.

Loteamento subaquático

Por vezes a lenda mistura-se à realidade. Há cerca de 40 anos, frei Ervano Rikers, o vigário, quis levar a imagem para restaurá-la em Santarém. Na véspera da viagem, a casa do padre amanheceu cercada por homens armados, para impedir que o padre terminasse roubando o ouro que havia no bucho do Santo, como se dizia no lugar. No retorno, o vigário mostrou-lhes o ouro retirado – vários morcegos mortos e pedaços de pau roídos pelas traças. Isso na missa das oito, para escândalo geral.

O Rio Tapajós é pródigo em arraias. E aqui também o inacreditável torna-se crível. Ainda hoje tida como comida de última classe, a arraia foi sempre um petisco consumido às escondidas, quando já não se tem nada para comer. Por isso mesmo elas eram muito procuradas em Boim. Hoje são poucas, mas na época da fartura, tanto havia panelas cheias com suas gordas abas como havia gente demais com as pernas gangrenadas pelas furadas de seus venenosos esporões. Conta-se que nos bons tempos eram frequentes negociarem-se as “camas” das arraias, que são os locais onde elas param para descansar e esperar suas presas.

Caboclo de Boim é um ás em cortar peixinhos. Desprovidos dos recursos para capturar peixes grandes, eles desenvolveram a técnica de pegar piabas cortando-as ao meio com um terçado bem afiado. Com auxílio de um facho de madeira que, aceso, serve de lanterna, eles vão pela beirinha do rio, catando caratingas-doidas e outras espécies minúsculas. A mulher leva o facho, um filho leva a cuia onde vão sendo colocados os peixes decepados ao meio, e o homem dá-se ao quase inacreditável trabalho de ir cortando, com uma destreza felina, os pequenos animais. Quando a cuia está cheia, fazem uma farofa, que serve de janta.

Algumas vezes, já enjoados de tanto comer peixinhos, eles os permutam com quem possui “camas” de arraias, nessa espécie de loteamento do leito do rio que, no verão, é levemente lamacento e propício ao peixe redondo, como dizem. Boa parte desse costume é coisa do passado. Como são coisas antigas as “ingerações” que consistiam na transmutação de algumas pessoas em animais. Uma velha que vira porca, um homem que vira cachorro, até o dia em que um forasteiro deu um tiro num cachorrão que assombrava a vila, nas noites escuras. Entre a vida e a morte, aquele ser “ingerado” terminou metade homem, metade cachorro.

O novo patrão

Nos últimos 300 anos, os habitantes de Boim sempre tiveram patrões. Desde os tempos do legendário Nurandaluguaburabara, que era gente deles. Vieram os jesuítas, mais tarde os judeus do Norte da África que aproveitaram a força de trabalho local durante um século. Depois, por menos tempo, instalou-se Mr. Coleman e seu parceiro norte-americano. Hoje, o grande patrão de Boim, o mais poderoso de todos, é a Amazonex Industrial Madeireira, com sede em Belém. O novo paí é Ovídio Gasparetto, que vez por outra vai à vila e procura relacionar-se da melhor maneira possível com o povo do lugar.

Os patrões do passado não se importavam com a terra, numa época em que o chão da Amazônia ainda não era mercadoria. A Amazonex, ao contrário, é senhora de meio Tapajós, depois de incorporar 104 posses, formando uma gleba que vai do Rio Amorim ao igarapé Anduru, nos limites do município de Aveiro. Saindo das margens do Tapajós, a propriedade vai dar com os fundos no distante Rio Arapiuns. Documentada pelo Incra, a área é aproveitada para a extração da madeira que é levada em toras para Belém, com a média entre mil e mil e quinhentas toras por mês.

A imensa “propriedade” envolve inclusive a vila de Boim e várias outras comunidades. Em Boim, depois de alguma disputa com os moradores, a empresa concedeu um afastamento de 13 quilômetros em redor do povoado. Única fonte de emprego, ela oferece perto de 40 vagas para os homens do lugar. Em 1758 o governador do Grão-Pará foi pessoalmente instalar a vila de Boim, havia pouco promovida da categoria de aldeia. Hoje é oficialmente um distrito do município de Santarém. Uma lei estadual sancionada pelo ex-governador Magalhães Barata, diz no artigo primeiro: “Ficam declaradas de serventia pública as matas de Boim”.

Tantos atos oficiais não impediram o Incra de conceder as terras a um particular que, com moderna tecnologia e em escala infinitamente maior, faz a mesma coisa que os habitantes do lugar sempre fizeram – extrair os recursos naturais. Só que os nativos buscam a sobrevivência e não o lucro. Com a desvantagem, para Boim, de que a antiga empresa de Mr. Coleman beneficiava as toras lá mesmo. Moradores, por antigos que sejam, não têm títulos nem do terreno de suas casas. A despeito de ser sede de um Distrito, os moradores dizem que até o terreno da igreja pertence à Amazonex. Vagamente informa-se que a légua patrimonial teria 60 quilômetros, porém sem especificação.

Pajé convertido

São indefinições existentes nesse verde vago mundo onde as pessoas mediam, nos tempos antigos, suas propriedades por tantas ou quantas linhas de seringueiras, indiferentes ao poder sobre a terra. Ainda parcialmente imersos nesse mundo, muitos sequer entendem por que uma empresa tem que ser dona de tamanha área só para retirar a madeira. E a caça? E a tradicional extração do cernambi, do cumaru, do breu de jutaí? Será possível sobreviver confinados em modestos 13 quilômetros em torno da vila?
Indagações que inquietam os jovens da Delegacia do Sindicato dos Trabalhadores Rurais e que, sem muita informação, tentam esclarecer todas essas dúvidas. Para a Amazonex é importante ser dona da área de extração. No grosso da população não há sinais de revolta, afinal eles são secularmente habituados a patrões. Apenas não entendem por que agora não podem entrar na mata para caçar e fazer o que sempre fizeram.

No último dia 31 de julho eles festejaram mais uma vez o Santo Inácio, pagando suas promessas e agradecendo à Amazonex, que mandou recuperar parte da praça na frente da igreja, ameaçada pela erosão. “O prefeito daqui é o gerente da Amazonex”, disse um caboclo, para mostrar que a Prefeitura de Santarém nada tem feito para impedir que os abismos destruam a vila. Na missa das oito, no dia da festa, estava na igreja o Seu Cantídio Oliveira, o ex-pajé de Boim, hoje convertido ao catolicismo. Aos 78 anos ele não pratica mais as demoradas sessões de cura como antigamente. Curiosamente, ele reside sobre o aterro da casa onde nasceu dom Frederico Costa, o primeiro bispo prelado de Santarém.

(Os dados históricos têm como fonte a obra de Elísio Eden Cohen) 9.8.87

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